By bike through Kashuby

Endless stretches of forests, dozens of clean lakes and an ever-changing landscape, centuries-old traditions and a unique sense of identity - this is how Kashuby, one of the most frequently visited holiday regions in Poland, can be briefly described.

Thanks to investments in cycling infrastructure, Kashuby is also one of the regions that can be successfully explored by bike. One of our proposals is a three-day bicycle trip through Kashuby – three landscape parks from Chojnice through Brusy and Koscierzyna to Kartuzy.

By bike through Kashubia, photo: Pomorskie Travel

By bike through Kashubia, photo: Pomorskie Travel


called the Key and the Gate of Pomorskie by Jan Długosz, belong to the cities that changed significantly after the political transformation in Poland at the end of the last century. In the history of the city, whose name was Konitz for centuries, we can find episodes of the Thirteen Years’ War, the Swedish Deluge and even… witch trials. The memorable shape of the Gothic town hall, designed by Berlin architects, towers over the slightly sloping market square. Renovated tenement houses surrounding the market square with a fountain in the middle give a unique atmosphere to the market space.

Strong proof that the region focuses on cycling tourism is the Kashubian Route. This is the first and still the only network of forest bicycle routes in Poland, located in the southwestern part of the Tuchola Forest. Its characteristic feature is the use of a large number of bicycle paths separated from car traffic. Thanks to networks such as “Kahubian Marszruta”, a bicycle trip through Kashuby is the quintessence of this activity. In Chojnice, Brusy and Charzykowy, these roads have a surface of asphalt or good-quality decorative paving stones, while outside the towns “Kashubian Marszruta” usually abandons the asphalt in favor of gravel forest trails, very often running along forest fire protection strips.

The first section of the bicycle route through Kashuby runs along the Kashubian Route from Chojnice and then along Charzykowskie Lake. In Charzykowy, one goes straight to the lakeside promenade – a few years ago, the lawns by the lake were occupied by stalls selling Chinese souvenirs, today they are well-kept, green spaces encouraging you to spread a blanket near the water surface. The port piers are filled with yachts – Charzykowy is one of the most popular water recreation centres in Pomorskie.

Charzykowskie Lake, fot. Pomorskie Travel

Charzykowskie Lake, fot. Pomorskie Travel

In response to the growing popularity of the “Kashubian Route”, new catering facilities have been created in towns such as Funka, Bachora and Male Swornegacie in recent years. During the season, even in the small Stary Mlyn there is a trailer with a gastronomic offer, and in Chocinski Mlyn, at the intersection, watermelon lemonade is often offered by two gentlemen of early school age.

Tuchola Forest, fot. Pomorskie Travel

Tuchola Forest, fot. Pomorskie Travel

Zaborski Landscape Park, in which the largest Charzykowskie and Karsińskie Lakes lie, stretches almost to Brusy – until the end of the first day of driving. Together with the Bory Tucholskie National Park, it forms a UNESCO biosphere reserve of the same name. And what the Kashubian Route is to cyclists, the Brda River is to kayakers. The bicycle path crosses the river three times – there are so many opportunities to admire the Brda and catch the bug for another trip to the Tuchola Forest, this time by kayaking.

Just before Brusy, it is worth finding the farm of the famous Kashubian artist, Józef Chełmowski, hidden in dense trees behind the beautiful building of the Kashubian Cottage. The sculptor, painter and visionary, who died several years ago, left behind a beautiful legacy of his life in the form of handmade sculptures, paintings and everyday objects. The artist’s family makes his house, workshop and garden available to visitors, where you can see hundreds of various works of Kashubian folk art.

The newest cycling branch of the Kashubian Route leads from Łubnia towards Wiela, located on Lake Wielewskie. It is worth visiting a unique forest sanctuary there. The second most famous Calvary in Pomerania after Kalwaria Wejherowska consists of 14 chapels located on the forested hills above the lake. A few kilometers further, on the road towards Lake Wdzydze, cyclists will find another attraction in this area, i.e. the new 40-meter-high observation tower in Przytarnia.

This is where the second of Kashubia’s landscape parks begins, through which our bicycle route runs – Wdzydzki Landscape Park. The central part of the park is occupied by four connected lakes – Radolne, Gołuń, Jelenie and Wdzydze – forming the so-called Cross of the Wdzydze Lakes. It is a popular place for weekend relaxation among the inhabitants of the Tricity, who come here to relax, among others, on the bicycle trail leading around the Wdzydze lakes through Kashubians, called the Kashubian Sea.

The most famous cultural attraction at the Cross of the Wdzydze Lakes is the Kashubian Ethnographic Park Teodora and Izydor Gulgowski in Wdzydze Kiszewskie. A stay in Wdzydze Kiszewskie and a visit to about thirty open-air museum objects can be combined with an entrance to another, almost 40-meter high observation tower, which was built on Lake Radolne.

If we have a bicycle whose tires can cope with the sometimes sandy roads of the Tuchola Forest, the route from Lake Wdzydze should lead through two small villages located near Kościerzyna – Juszki and Lizaki. In the first one, the most striking features are traditional wooden cottages, examples of Kashubian folk architecture. In the 1990s, a small half-timbered church with intricately carved wooden doors was moved to the second village.


For years competing with Gdańsk and Kartuzy for the title of the capital of Kashubia, this is the finish line of the second day of the bicycle route. In addition to an evening walk around the market square, your stay in Kościerzyna will be enriched by visiting local museums. One of them is the Kościerzyna Land Museum, which collects traces of memory about the region. Guests can also visit the Accordion Museum and the Railway Museum, formerly known as the Kościerzyna Open-Air Museum. Both have rich, unique collections in their fields.

After visiting the railway open-air museum, we set off from Kościerzyna along the former railway trail. For several kilometers, the bicycle route leads along the embankment of the former railway line towards Gołubie, located above the famous Raduński Circle and on the border of the Kashubian Landscape Park. Although it is still only a trace of the former railway line with a gravel, slightly dusty surface, it is certainly one of the pleasant parts of the route. An interesting fact is the two viaducts of the line dismantled in 1930, which was replaced by the railway main line connecting Gdynia with Upper Silesia, which was built in those years.

Wybicki Manor in Sikorzyn, photo: Pomorskie.Travel

Wybicki Manor in Sikorzyn, photo: Pomorskie.Travel

Near the end of the post-railway section of the route there is a manor house in Sikorzyn, once the property of the Sikorski family, and then the Wybicki family. Józef Wybicki, the author of the words of the Polish national anthem, comes from there, more often associated with Będomin, 10 kilometers away. Currently, the manor is owned by a conservator from Gdańsk, who bought the devastated building to renovate and restore its former atmosphere for the next 10 years. The passion for conservation helped create a place full of courtly atmosphere with an exhibition of the original interiors, a tea room and even guest rooms. All this is hidden under a 300-year-old oak tree in a dense, natural park.


A ride along the lakes of the Raduńskie Circle can be considered the most attractive part of a cycling weekend in Kashubia in terms of views. Although the route runs along a public road, the need for increased attention is compensated by views of the most beautiful Kashubian sites. During the approximately twenty-kilometer section between Gołubie and Chmielno, the bicycle route passes as many as seven lakes. Each of them can delight, but the most impressive place is the wide arc of Lake Ostrzyckie, located near the highest peak of the Polish lake district – Wieżyca. For those looking for additional experiences, a short bicycle climb to Wieżyca may be an interesting route variant – a new bicycle path leads from Gołubie to the parking lot under the peak.

For tourists interested in Kashubian folk culture, there is a museum of Kashubian ceramics in Chmielno, run by the Kashubian Necel family, which has been producing Kashubian vessels for several generations. The first ceramics factory of Franciszek Necel was established here a hundred years ago. In his works, Necel relied on seven basic motifs that still distinguish Kashubian porcelain from Chmielno – a lilac wand, a small and large tulip, a Kashubian star, a fish scale, a Kashubian wreath and a lily. Please note – the Necel Kashubian Ceramics Museum in Chmielno is closed on Sunday.

Łapalice, located on the other side of Lake Rekowo, can be reached either by a shorter, more demanding route through the Kartuski Forest, or by a gentler, although longer and less comfortable section on concrete slabs. It is customary to call the building that has been standing here for almost thirty years a castle, although the characteristics of the building clearly indicate that it had a palace function. Thousands of tourists for whom Łapalice is a permanent place in Kashubia certainly do not think about the issue of naming. Interestingly, recent months have brought information about the possible completion of the suspended construction. However, when visiting this place, please remember that the gate opened by vandals does not mean official permission to visit the private facility, nor does it ensure safety inside the abandoned facility.

An interesting fact is that the Bilowo clearing in the Kartuski Forest, a few minutes’ bike ride from Łapalice, is the second most popular center for cross-country skiing after Tricity. The microclimate that is created in this clearing near Kartuzy in winter favors maintaining a cross-country ski trail here in winter and attracts runners from the entire region, including the Tricity.


The three-day bicycle journey ends with Kartuzy, one of the most important cultural centers on the map of Kashubia. A must-see during your visit to the city should be visiting the Kashubian Museum, which will well summarize your stay in this unique region. You should also find time to visit the Collegiate Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. The most frequently mentioned feature of the temple is the coffin-shaped roof, which refers to the words “memento mori”, which is the credo of the local Carthusian order. Inside, it is also worth paying attention to the kurdyban – gilded leather used to decorate the walls of the collegiate church.

A convenient means of transport to get to the Kashubian bicycle route is the train. Access to the beginning of the route to Chojnice will be provided by connections from the Tricity, Bydgoszcz, Poznań and Szczecin. The return from Kartuzy to Tricity will be ensured by the Pomeranian Metropolitan Railway and the possibility of changing to the next connection in Gdańsk or Gdynia. In all larger towns along the route – Chojnice, Charzykowy, Swornegacie, Brusy, Wielu, Kościerzyna, Chmielno and Kartuzy – there is a very developed accommodation base. From campsites and agritourism farms to three-star hotels – there will certainly be a place for every cycling tourist that meets his needs.

Also go on other trips or trails in Pomerania:




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