Weekend in Żuławy

Żuławy is unspoilt and free from mass tourism, which shows in a relaxed atmosphere of the region. There is often not a living soul in the endless, plain fields. The general feeling in local towns and villages is also peaceful and welcoming.

One of the highlights of the region is its characteristic architecture, namely arcade houses, which feature a protruded storey on the ceiling or a side wall, supported by wooden pillars. The oldest arcade houses date back to the 16th century and can be found in Trutnowy, Steblewo, Żuławki, Marynowy, Nowa Kościelnica and Orłowo.

In the latter, there is a house with… a moustache, because that’s how wooden ornaments on the remarkable arcade look like. Those who are after aesthetic landscapes will surely fall in love with towns and villages of Żuławy, characterised by harmonious architecture and free from advertisements or gaudy signboards marring the landscape.

Arcade houses, photo: Pomorskie Travel

Arcade houses, photo: Pomorskie Travel

Another distinctive feature of Żuławy is its cheese-making tradition – the local speciality is traditional Werderkäse cheese – which has its origins in the history of the region. The area used to be inhabited by the Mennonites, namely Orthodox settlers from the Netherlands.

At the end of the 16th century, due to repressions, they had to ran away from their country and were looking for a place to live and farm. At that time, Poland was regarded as an open and tolerant country, so the Mennonites settled down in Żuławy. They brought technologies of constructing canals, embankments and flood banks, which allowed marshy areas of the delta of the Vistula River to be transformed into fertile fields.

The Low Lands landscape

Cheese-making tradition, photo: Żuławski Park Historyczny

Cheese-making tradition, photo: Żuławski Park Historyczny

For several centuries, the Mennonites influenced the culture of Żuławy, but their situation got worse at the end of the 18th century. As a result of the partitions of Poland, their lands came under the reign of the King of Prussia, who ordered men to be called up regardless of the fact that their religion forbade them to fight. In consequence, many families ran away to… czarist Russia. The next purge took place after the Second World War, when people from the Polish eastern frontier were moved to the delta of the Vistula River.

read more Kitchen in Low Land. From the Teutonic chicken to Mennonite sausage

There was no place for the Mennonites, who were regarded as ‘a German element’, and they had to go back to western countries… What’s left of them is cultural heritage and, among others, cemeteries with characteristic tombs in Stawiec or Stogi. Dutch influences can be found in the distinctive architecture of the village of Żuławki, once classified as one of the ’50 most interesting villages in Poland’.

For centuries, other elements of Żuławy landscape associated with the Netherlands included effective windmills. Although only few of them have been preserved, including in the towns of Drewnica and Palczewo, they’re definitely a must. In Nowa Kościelnica, you will find HERSZTEK Manufacture, offering remarkable handicrafts, such as hand-made tiles with Żuławy themes, including windmills.

Windmill in Palczewo, photo: Pomorskie Travel

Windmill in Palczewo, photo: Pomorskie Travel

Palczewo also boasts historical St. Mary’s Church, the only church in Żuławy built entirely of wood. Its cosy interior and over two-hundred-year-old organs, which are still in use, is so remarkable that couples from all over Poland come to Żuławy to get married here.

St. Mary’s Church in Palczewo, fot. UMWP

St. Mary’s Church in Palczewo, fot. UMWP

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